Those in the know have crowned Kerala as "God's Own Country" and there is nothing finer than the famed Backwaters in all its lands. Our internet advisors (notably the IndiaMike.com travel forum) had guided us to a punted country boat day trip, rather than the rather elongated and potentially mosquito-ridden overnight houseboat stay ... and a mighty fine piece of advice it proved to be.
But as ever, nothing was completely straightforward, including the organisation of the tour. We had trustingly left this in the hands of our homestay owner. Big mistake! The housekeeper who was supposed to have arranged everything in fact had done precisely nothing. Then, after initially trying to fob us off with the "it's a public holiday" excuse, she eventually made a phone call and few minutes later, a twenty-something youth with a shock of slick-backed hair arrived at the homestay. His price for the cruise was exhorbitant and far higher than the homestay owner had previously quoted us. Our objections were met with a rather smarmy grin and the response that: "our business is owned by some famous people". Chitra and I exchanged knowing glances and speedily sent him on his way. We pulled out our handy "Rough Guide to India", which had a list of cruise operators. We called a company called Deva Travels, where we spoke to a chap called Ajit, who was mercifully much more straightforward. He offered us the eminently fair price of Rs.1000 for a 4 hour trip for the family and explained that we would be the only folks in the boat (along with the punter and guide). This was in stark contrast to our "company of famous people", where there would have been 6-8 people per boat. .
Nonetheless, by now suitably chastened, we awoke the next morning with some trepidation ... would Mr. Ajit actually send a car to pick us up? Would he try to fob us off with a short trip? As it happened, our concerns were unnecessary. He came himself (so there would be no issues directing an unknown driver) and took it upon himself to be our guide for the trip. What a change to be pleasantly surprised!
Ajit explained that the car would be taking us to a village some 30km away from where we would take the country boat. Leaving Fort Kochi was like opening the curtain to rural Kerala. The air was laden with the sweet smells of plants, wet mud and spices; the greenery expanded exponentially; and a cool breeze stroked our faces. After about an hour, we reached our destination where, rather than rushing into the trip, Ajit first walked us through
the land abutting the boat jetty. Right alongside stood a low house with traditional tiled, sloping roof, which had been the main homestead of a landlord/zamindar. You could still see faded painted frescoes along parts of the front (the landlords had departed and the land was now only used as a jetty). We strolled through an orchard that contained various peppercorn creepers and cinnamon trees. We observed the rope steps on coconut trees that allowed for the collection of toddy, the sap that is fermented into Palm Wine. We walked around little ponds which had worked as wells in yesteryears, and were now ringed with young pineapple bushes (photo above). We also visited a Coir weaver's home, where an old man kindly worked 
his mechanical loom so we could see how a coir mat was made. It is sad of course that this way of life is in decline with the growth of semi-automatic looms in distant factories. Back at the jetty, we climbed into the country boat a bit hesitantly. In keeping with his position as master of mischief-making, Sarvesh initially refused to step into the boat, and then having done so, proceeded to fidget around, first sitting on the bench, then sliding down to sit on the boat floor, causing us to be rocked rather alarmingly!
What can we say of the trip? A beautiful silence stretching out miles ... eagles s
natching at fish in the shallow waters, smaller chinese fishing nets in a fisherman's backyard, black cormorants perched on a tree, another swimming in the water (with only its black head poking out) - and much, much more. The people were different too: more relaxed and kinder, all of us soothed by the gentle lap and ebb of the channel waters and the gentle rural breeze. As our boat moved from the main c
hannel into a large expanse of water (en route to the narrower channels), we caught sight of some covered houseboats with suitably somnolent lolling around on-board. Apparently, the boats are made by stitching together wooden boards, treated with fish oil, leaves and other materials. Sturdy, water-tight compartments indeed, and later on, we saw some that were used to carry sand and other raw materials).
Among our various stops was a village by name of Kuthiathode, where we visited the local fish market and were introduced to that Kerala staple, the Reading Room - a t
estament to the state's higher than average literacy rate. Also not to be missed was the Ayurveda Shop, the Toddy Room, and the Tea Shop. A side canal took us to a local prawn farm where we learnt about how water was flushed through the man-made ponds for cultivation either of rice/paddy or prawns. It is interesting to note the continuous interaction of salt and fresh water in these channels. Salt water prevalent in the monsoon allows for farming of prawns and different kinds of fishes, whereas fresh water in the other seasons allows paddy cultivation and fresh water fishing.
The bright day and b
eautiful vistas were punctuated by little children who ran along the narrow ridges between the water bodies waving and blowing kisses to us. The onset of the Onam festival could be seen in the lovely gold-white saris that ladies wore as they and their menfolk left their little hamlets for a near-by wedding. It was our first experience of a Kerala village, and you could see the pride of the folk in how cleanly the front yards had been swept that morning. We ended the walk with some wonderfully sweet tender coconut. I had heard of but not realized how nutritious the drink was ... the water and its accompanying tender pulp were a great energy booster, and wholesome food that kept us going for another hour at least.
Drinking water is a key challenge of life in the backwaters - especially given the constant tussle between salt and fresh water. Ajit showed us evidence of government help
in the water pumps that lay between homes that were going a long way towards alleviating the problem. It also appears that pollution isn't hurting the fish population in the region, although we found that a bit surprising. However, it is also true that except for portions of the trip that approached village settlements, there was very little evidence of trash/garbage. Clearly the people living off the land took care to preserve their ecology.
There are many more
images that come to mind in that dreamy trip back to the jetty. Among them, a bunch of ducks screeching at us from the water (disconcerted when Sarvesh screeched back at them!); a saw mill where boats were put up for repairs; and a conch sound with accompanying songs from a local temple (perhaps the wedding in progress that the villagers from the prawn farm had been walking to?).
It was hard to come back to earth from that trip. Where to go from that paradise? We eventually opted for the Tripunithra Hill Palace, the erstwhile seat of the Rajas of Kochi. Unfortunately, we arrived there only to find the palace itself closed for renovations (and believe us, they are necessary!), but the gardens were open to the public.
As ex-residents of Bangalore, we are fairly used to well laid out gardens (Kempe Gowda, Brindavan Gardens). But the Hill Palace was majestic in its own right. Gleaming hibiscus, marigolds and rose bushes were laid out in terraces that led up to the m
ain palace doors, the sweet scents and warm sun bringing out multi-hued butterflies ... wow! There were some segments of garden, including a fountain with inviting benches around it and a colonnaded walk, that at one time must have been covered by endearing vines. The intimate walks and secluded, flower-scented corners were ideal for lovers and we kept stumbling upon them, much to the delight of Shobhita and Sarvesh, who are true romantics at heart!
After that restful visit, we were ready for another Kerala treat: a viewing of Kalaripayattu and Kathakali at the Ke
rala Kathakali Centre of Fort Kochi, which we would thoroughly recommend. The 1-hour Kalaripayattu demo was astounding in both its skill and intensity; it's too bad the performance which started at 4p was not better attended. We strongly recommend it, but do advise against sitting in the front row because there were a couple of times when the bamboo sticks slipped from the hands of the participants and would have thumped a hapless front-bencher on the head. Mr. Vijayan, who acts as master of ceremonies for both the Kalaripayattu and Kathakali performances (besides being the main singer for the Kathakali performance) provided great insight into the history and traditions of this classically Keralan dance. In particular, he spent half an hour demonstrating (along with a dancer) the various abhinaya and hand gestures that make up the language of Kathakali. The auditorium was intimate and charmingly-decorated, replete with wooden panelling and a carved Kathakali head atop a traditional Kerala roof structure that adorned the stage. Also mention must be made of the almost 1 hour-worth of make-up that was carefully placed on the various artists. It is as much a part of the kathakali art-form as the dance-drama that followed.
It might well be that the piece danced by the Kathakali troupe - an episode involving Shiva disguised as a hunter, Parvati and Arjuna - is quite standard for most Kathakali performances. But it is a very ex
pressive episode from the Mahabharata epic and was a great demonstration of Kathakali both as a dance form and a form of drama. In the agile facial movements of the actors, the leaps and bounds of the dancers, you can see the origins of the classical Bharatanatyam dance, as well as Indian Theatre. The interactions between Shiva and Parvati were particularly charming, as the two were portrayed as truly inseparable. Shiva might be the Father of the Universe, but he lacks self-confidence in the absence of Parvati. She is his inspiration, and he needs her at all times to be his most masterful self. It was a beautifully egalitarian interpretation of both the Gods and of Marital life!
Check out our short videos depicting the Kalaripayattu and Kathakali that we were fortunate to witness ...
But as ever, nothing was completely straightforward, including the organisation of the tour. We had trustingly left this in the hands of our homestay owner. Big mistake! The housekeeper who was supposed to have arranged everything in fact had done precisely nothing. Then, after initially trying to fob us off with the "it's a public holiday" excuse, she eventually made a phone call and few minutes later, a twenty-something youth with a shock of slick-backed hair arrived at the homestay. His price for the cruise was exhorbitant and far higher than the homestay owner had previously quoted us. Our objections were met with a rather smarmy grin and the response that: "our business is owned by some famous people". Chitra and I exchanged knowing glances and speedily sent him on his way. We pulled out our handy "Rough Guide to India", which had a list of cruise operators. We called a company called Deva Travels, where we spoke to a chap called Ajit, who was mercifully much more straightforward. He offered us the eminently fair price of Rs.1000 for a 4 hour trip for the family and explained that we would be the only folks in the boat (along with the punter and guide). This was in stark contrast to our "company of famous people", where there would have been 6-8 people per boat. .
Nonetheless, by now suitably chastened, we awoke the next morning with some trepidation ... would Mr. Ajit actually send a car to pick us up? Would he try to fob us off with a short trip? As it happened, our concerns were unnecessary. He came himself (so there would be no issues directing an unknown driver) and took it upon himself to be our guide for the trip. What a change to be pleasantly surprised!
Ajit explained that the car would be taking us to a village some 30km away from where we would take the country boat. Leaving Fort Kochi was like opening the curtain to rural Kerala. The air was laden with the sweet smells of plants, wet mud and spices; the greenery expanded exponentially; and a cool breeze stroked our faces. After about an hour, we reached our destination where, rather than rushing into the trip, Ajit first walked us through
the land abutting the boat jetty. Right alongside stood a low house with traditional tiled, sloping roof, which had been the main homestead of a landlord/zamindar. You could still see faded painted frescoes along parts of the front (the landlords had departed and the land was now only used as a jetty). We strolled through an orchard that contained various peppercorn creepers and cinnamon trees. We observed the rope steps on coconut trees that allowed for the collection of toddy, the sap that is fermented into Palm Wine. We walked around little ponds which had worked as wells in yesteryears, and were now ringed with young pineapple bushes (photo above). We also visited a Coir weaver's home, where an old man kindly worked 
his mechanical loom so we could see how a coir mat was made. It is sad of course that this way of life is in decline with the growth of semi-automatic looms in distant factories. Back at the jetty, we climbed into the country boat a bit hesitantly. In keeping with his position as master of mischief-making, Sarvesh initially refused to step into the boat, and then having done so, proceeded to fidget around, first sitting on the bench, then sliding down to sit on the boat floor, causing us to be rocked rather alarmingly!What can we say of the trip? A beautiful silence stretching out miles ... eagles s
natching at fish in the shallow waters, smaller chinese fishing nets in a fisherman's backyard, black cormorants perched on a tree, another swimming in the water (with only its black head poking out) - and much, much more. The people were different too: more relaxed and kinder, all of us soothed by the gentle lap and ebb of the channel waters and the gentle rural breeze. As our boat moved from the main c
hannel into a large expanse of water (en route to the narrower channels), we caught sight of some covered houseboats with suitably somnolent lolling around on-board. Apparently, the boats are made by stitching together wooden boards, treated with fish oil, leaves and other materials. Sturdy, water-tight compartments indeed, and later on, we saw some that were used to carry sand and other raw materials).Among our various stops was a village by name of Kuthiathode, where we visited the local fish market and were introduced to that Kerala staple, the Reading Room - a t
estament to the state's higher than average literacy rate. Also not to be missed was the Ayurveda Shop, the Toddy Room, and the Tea Shop. A side canal took us to a local prawn farm where we learnt about how water was flushed through the man-made ponds for cultivation either of rice/paddy or prawns. It is interesting to note the continuous interaction of salt and fresh water in these channels. Salt water prevalent in the monsoon allows for farming of prawns and different kinds of fishes, whereas fresh water in the other seasons allows paddy cultivation and fresh water fishing.The bright day and b
eautiful vistas were punctuated by little children who ran along the narrow ridges between the water bodies waving and blowing kisses to us. The onset of the Onam festival could be seen in the lovely gold-white saris that ladies wore as they and their menfolk left their little hamlets for a near-by wedding. It was our first experience of a Kerala village, and you could see the pride of the folk in how cleanly the front yards had been swept that morning. We ended the walk with some wonderfully sweet tender coconut. I had heard of but not realized how nutritious the drink was ... the water and its accompanying tender pulp were a great energy booster, and wholesome food that kept us going for another hour at least.Drinking water is a key challenge of life in the backwaters - especially given the constant tussle between salt and fresh water. Ajit showed us evidence of government help
in the water pumps that lay between homes that were going a long way towards alleviating the problem. It also appears that pollution isn't hurting the fish population in the region, although we found that a bit surprising. However, it is also true that except for portions of the trip that approached village settlements, there was very little evidence of trash/garbage. Clearly the people living off the land took care to preserve their ecology.There are many more
images that come to mind in that dreamy trip back to the jetty. Among them, a bunch of ducks screeching at us from the water (disconcerted when Sarvesh screeched back at them!); a saw mill where boats were put up for repairs; and a conch sound with accompanying songs from a local temple (perhaps the wedding in progress that the villagers from the prawn farm had been walking to?).It was hard to come back to earth from that trip. Where to go from that paradise? We eventually opted for the Tripunithra Hill Palace, the erstwhile seat of the Rajas of Kochi. Unfortunately, we arrived there only to find the palace itself closed for renovations (and believe us, they are necessary!), but the gardens were open to the public.
As ex-residents of Bangalore, we are fairly used to well laid out gardens (Kempe Gowda, Brindavan Gardens). But the Hill Palace was majestic in its own right. Gleaming hibiscus, marigolds and rose bushes were laid out in terraces that led up to the m
ain palace doors, the sweet scents and warm sun bringing out multi-hued butterflies ... wow! There were some segments of garden, including a fountain with inviting benches around it and a colonnaded walk, that at one time must have been covered by endearing vines. The intimate walks and secluded, flower-scented corners were ideal for lovers and we kept stumbling upon them, much to the delight of Shobhita and Sarvesh, who are true romantics at heart!After that restful visit, we were ready for another Kerala treat: a viewing of Kalaripayattu and Kathakali at the Ke
rala Kathakali Centre of Fort Kochi, which we would thoroughly recommend. The 1-hour Kalaripayattu demo was astounding in both its skill and intensity; it's too bad the performance which started at 4p was not better attended. We strongly recommend it, but do advise against sitting in the front row because there were a couple of times when the bamboo sticks slipped from the hands of the participants and would have thumped a hapless front-bencher on the head. Mr. Vijayan, who acts as master of ceremonies for both the Kalaripayattu and Kathakali performances (besides being the main singer for the Kathakali performance) provided great insight into the history and traditions of this classically Keralan dance. In particular, he spent half an hour demonstrating (along with a dancer) the various abhinaya and hand gestures that make up the language of Kathakali. The auditorium was intimate and charmingly-decorated, replete with wooden panelling and a carved Kathakali head atop a traditional Kerala roof structure that adorned the stage. Also mention must be made of the almost 1 hour-worth of make-up that was carefully placed on the various artists. It is as much a part of the kathakali art-form as the dance-drama that followed.It might well be that the piece danced by the Kathakali troupe - an episode involving Shiva disguised as a hunter, Parvati and Arjuna - is quite standard for most Kathakali performances. But it is a very ex
pressive episode from the Mahabharata epic and was a great demonstration of Kathakali both as a dance form and a form of drama. In the agile facial movements of the actors, the leaps and bounds of the dancers, you can see the origins of the classical Bharatanatyam dance, as well as Indian Theatre. The interactions between Shiva and Parvati were particularly charming, as the two were portrayed as truly inseparable. Shiva might be the Father of the Universe, but he lacks self-confidence in the absence of Parvati. She is his inspiration, and he needs her at all times to be his most masterful self. It was a beautifully egalitarian interpretation of both the Gods and of Marital life!Check out our short videos depicting the Kalaripayattu and Kathakali that we were fortunate to witness ...
Kalaripayattu: Watch the sparks fly in some astounding Kalaripayattu Duals!!
Kathakali Part 1: Make-up, and Lecture-Demonstration
Kathakali Part 2: Performance of the story from the Mahabharata.
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